Porto

Every Camino Portugués begins with a choice — and it begins in Porto.

Portugal’s second city rises in terraces above the Douro, its Ribeira old town a tangle of narrow streets and tiled facades that earned it UNESCO protection. Pilgrims traditionally start from the steps of the Sé cathedral, high above the river, though many linger a day first: for the azulejo panels of São Bento station, for the port wine cellars across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, for one more long Portuguese dinner before the walking starts.

From Porto the Way divides. The Central route heads inland through Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valença — the historic path, some 240 kilometres to Santiago. The Coastal route follows the Atlantic north, trading hills for sea wind and fishing villages. Both are well marked, both end at the same cathedral, and pilgrims debate their merits with the seriousness of theologians.

Staying in Porto means choosing how close to the river you want to sleep. The city holds everything from pilgrim albergues to guesthouses in old merchant houses — 14 places to stay are listed below, with addresses, prices, seasons and booking. In summer, book your first nights ahead; the city is no secret.

However you leave — inland or by the sea — the first stamp in your credencial goes here. Bom Caminho.