As of November 1, the high road from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles — the Napoleon route, over the Lepoeder pass by way of Orisson — is closed for the winter, as it is every year until March 31. This is a legal closure, not advice: the crossing is prohibited in winter conditions, and pilgrims who attempt it face fines and, far worse, a genuine rescue risk on an exposed ridge in Pyrenean weather.
The winter way is the valley: the Valcarlos route, stage 1B on our Camino Francés page. It leaves Saint-Jean along the valley road through the village of Valcarlos and climbs to Roncesvalles by the Ibañeta pass — 23.4 km, lower and sheltered the whole way. It is still a serious mountain day, so start early, carry the daylight in mind, and know you can split the stage with a night in Valcarlos.
Roncesvalles itself is ready for you: its pilgrim albergue stays open through the winter (booking recommended) — it’s on our list of albergues open in winter on the Camino Francés, town by town.
In spring the high route reopens, weather permitting — the pilgrim office in Saint-Jean advises on the day, in every season. In winter, there is no decision to make: the mountain is closed, and the valley is beautiful.